Saw Naples, Didn’t Die
Heading home, crazy week ahead, so if you’re thinking of visiting Naples these are my bullet-point observations.
Go if you want to get the sights and smells of a rough working port that feels like a mash-up of Marseilles, Havana and Istanbul.
Visit the National Archeological Museum and the Modern Art gallery. Visit Herculaneum over Pompeii, as it’s smaller, more manageable, and has more complete buildings with mosaics and art.
Don’t look for the best pizza in the home of the pizza; they’re all pretty good but will be slung at you by the world’s rudest waiters. Time your meals to hit just before the rush.
Use the funiculars and tube system to get about – easier and less risky than taxis, who have to detour through backstreets to cut around railway lines and hills.
Visit the markets, be horrified by the collapsing buildings, the appalling state of repair and utter failure of the city governance to impose any kind of control (plenty of militia, hardly any cops). Or look at it another way and see a city ruled by the church and a sense of natural entropy. This may be what the end of times looks like.
Eat the rum babas, Easter cakes, tarralos, fresh fish and pasta, pasta, pasta! Restaurants that use simple local ingredients are best.