Take Me To Dinner
Come on then, what’s that thing on the left? If you said a glazed tangerine you’d be cold. Now if I tell you it’s in Heston Blumenthal’s new restaurant, Dinner, have another guess.
Erm, ell, it’s meat. You break the mandarin jelly skin and biter into chicken liver parfait. It come from around 1500, and all of the other dishes are from England’s past. There’s savoury porridge (c1660), spiced pigeon (c1780), cod in cider (c1940), Sussex pond pudding (c1620) taffety tart (1830), roast turbot with cockle ketchup and leaf chicory (c1839) and Roast Scallops with cucumber ketchup and borage (c1820).
So, as someone who once wrote a historical cookery programme, I desperately want to go there. But that’s the catch. It’s fexpensive (a new word I just made up to denote extreme cost). I’m a writer, not a hedge fund manager. It’ll have to wait for a very special occasion.
Dinner is at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge, London, SW1X 7LA, 020 7201 3833