A Week In Esoteric London

Christopher Fowler
Wynd1 Behind the hollowing-out of London, the glass-and-steel boxes of the Square Mile and the architectural uproar of the new railway line Crossrail which has resulted in entire city blocks vanishing overnight, quirky London clings on by its fingertips, surviving in the halls and pubs that haven't been turned into luxury loft living. This week I visited three such places. e78509205825686d1635f4c473ee5693First up was the Model"> Railway Club of King's Cross, refreshingly a workshop/ track-building club in the city centre which owns its own building and doesn't have to worry about finding new homes (a rare thing now). It's the oldest club in the world, and filled with ex-railway men (there was one woman present when I visited) as well as young people, working on projects that take decades to finish. A charming gentleman in a railway club tie tried to explain about 00 gauges but realised his guest was struggling with the concept. The club seeks no publicity but welcomes all. On to a night with the Sohemians, meeting upstairs at the mock-Tudor Wheatsheaf pub in Rathbone Place, a rare gem of a building that has survived when its delightful neighbour, The Newman Arms (which featured in the film 'Peeping Tom') has been closed down. The Sohemians are interested in all things London and esoteric. I've played there, and last night film historian Charles Barr took us through the history of Ealing Studios, scoring some fascinating political points along the way. Barr explained that Margaret Thatcher and Boris Johnson had both professed their love of these films, failing to realise that what they mistook for Little England patriotism is quite the reverse, with the Michael Balcon films in particular emphasising community over commerce.
The Sohemians' next event is a new film, Adrift in Soho', based on the book by 'Outsider' Colin Wilson. Wynd3 Next I visited Viktor Wynd's Last Tuesday Society, where the collector houses his Museum of Curiosities, in Mare Street, Hackney. It's a part of London tourists don't often get to because although close to the centre it's cut off from transport. Here's my favourite market, Broadway Market, a park and another reach of the Regent Canal. The old Hackney residents now find themselves in the grip of gentrification, yet it's an area where small businesses appear to thrive. The Museum is clearly a labour of love for Wynd, but a bit of a Marmite experience. Housed in an ordinary Victorian terrace, the ground floor is effectively a cocktail bar/ tea shop with exhibits (items from Cornwall's Museum of Witchcraft were on loan when I went, but it was too dark inside to see them clearly). Down a winding staircase the main exhibits await; taxidermy, ephemera, skeletons, eggs of extinct birds, paintings, toys, antique dentistry, masks, historical pornography and ludicrous paperbacks fill the displays. Oh, and Pablo Escobar's gold-leafed hippopotamus head. Wynd2Wynd has a love of Gesamtkunstwerk, juxtaposing many strange objects to create a total work of art. But he also admits that he has never wanted to have an original idea in his life, so he collects instead. The problem with this initially glorious chaos is immediately apparent; without a theme there's no sense of curatorship, and it's all simply a mess (something Wynd admits to loving). A stuffed bear in a fez - didn't Les Trois Garcons do that a decade ago? Isn't it a little outmoded now? Wynd4Dominating one corner is the sequinned suit of the dandy Sebastian Horsley, always spotted in his stovepipe hat drifting about Soho (until he overdosed).
He was someone I knew and found intensely irritating, but it's a problem I have with all self-obsessed dilettantes. This is a cabinet of curiosities, but its real subject is the collector himself. Still, the best thing is that the Museum organises all sorts of workshops, events and lectures, and is a welcome addition in an area that encourages the idiosyncratic. Cleverly, it also makes money. tn-500_01 But it's not just the small places that host esoteric works; at the end of the week I visited the vast and still hopelessly confusing Barbican to watch a three-hour Manga turned into a theatrical experience. 'Pluto">' was a spectacular history of post-war Japan seen through the eyes of the hero Astro-Boy, via a breathlessly complex story about killer robots, AI, family and international politics. It revealed Japanese obsessions with memory and mourning, honour and loss. This astonishing physical production was under-attended on a rainy London Saturday. Now, let's add up the total cost of all this esoteric entertainment; nothing, a fiver, another fiver, £25. Not an expensive week, but so much to think about.


Denise Treadwell (not verified) Fri, 16/02/2018 - 08:32

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Money well spent? My daughter is much into Manga, and can draw them .And understands some Japanese. And actually won't watch a Japanese movie that has sub tiitles.

chazza (not verified) Fri, 16/02/2018 - 09:55

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Sebastian Horsley? Ghastly poseur (to speak totally ill of the dead)...

Christopher Fowler Fri, 16/02/2018 - 15:37

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'Pluto' is a stage play, complete with battles - a bit like the Robot restaurant in Tokyo.

Steveb (not verified) Fri, 16/02/2018 - 20:48

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Obscure film fact: the writer of Peeping Tom was the same spymaster who wrote the poem in Carve her Name with Pride:

The life that I have
Is all that I have
And the life that I have
Is yours.

Denise Treadwell (not verified) Sat, 17/02/2018 - 03:11

In reply to by anonymous_stub (not verified)

Robot restaurant? Are you served by little robot trolleys? I went to a Japanese in London and was served sake from a little robot drinks trolley. We have a lot of Japanese restaurants but they don't have robots . Pulto sounds interesting, I bet my daughter would like that.I saw Ka in Las Vegas, it reminded me of actors in a kabuki theater.

Christopher Fowler Sat, 17/02/2018 - 07:14

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No, you eat and watch giant robots thrashing each other. It's extremely surreal.

Denise Treadwell (not verified) Sat, 17/02/2018 - 08:49

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Did they have people inside the robots? Did the entertainment make you eat and drink more? I can't help thinking eating and drinking while watching a stressful show you might need another drink !

Ian Luck (not verified) Sun, 18/02/2018 - 01:08

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As long as it wasn't a Hentai restaurant - the sight of huge, slimy tentacled daemon monsters doing unspeakable things to Japanese schoolgirls would not, to my way of thinking, be condusive to a pleasant dining experience. At all.

Denise Treadwell (not verified) Sun, 18/02/2018 - 07:54

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The name is mecha .

Helen Martin (not verified) Tue, 20/02/2018 - 06:38

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A long time ago you mentioned the Model Railway club which has been meeting since 1904 or some incredible date like that. I made sure my husband read it and when we were in London the first time he checked them out and knocked on their door. He had a memorable evening with a group of like minded men and remembers it with pleasure yet. Glad to know it still carries on.